How to make a Queen Size Jelly Roll 1600 quilt, Version One & Two
Disclaimer...it's a queen size quilt made in the ~style~ of a Jelly Roll 1600 quilt but it requires many more strips than the original lap-size 1600 quilt. Second disclaimer: For me, this year is all about finishing things up and using up stash so I will be using every opportunity possible to maximize using stash instead of purchasing new.
To recap, the twin size version required 78 strips, did not have borders and finished at 65 x 96 before quilting and washing. After being quilted, bound and washed it measured 59 x 89 which is a decent size for a twin bed. (A twin mattress measures 39 x 75 so it will have about a 10" drop and a little bit of a pillow tuck). A queen size mattress measures 60" x 80" so, to make this a queen size quilt the simplest thing to do would be to add borders to the 65 x 96 that we had before. So,
Version 1: 12-16" inches of borders (6"-8" each side) would give you a quilt about 80" x 110" which fits a queen size with about an 8" drop. Adding a single outer border requires 2 3/4 yards of fabric for lengthwise strips at 8 1/2" and would give you a finished quilt size of 81" x 112". If you prefer to piece your outer border cut (9) 8 1/2" wide strips from 2 1/4 yards of fabric. Join the strips and cut to measured length. Attach, measure side to side and cut 2 more borders. Backing: 7 1/2 yards, pieced with 2 horizontal seams. Binding: 1 1/4 yards for bias binding; 2/3 yd for (10) strips cut at 2 1/2" (or use leftover JR strips!).
However, you saw how much length and width you "lose" in washing so here is what I ended up with:
This version requires a total of 70 strips, just a few less than the twin size version because we're adding borders too. If you are using a Jelly Roll pack Plus stash remember to mix up all the strips before you begin sewing strips together. Start with (1) Jelly Roll plus 10 extra strips cut from stash, so 50 strips or about 2000". Piece together using the Jelly Roll method for a unit that measures approximately 62" x 64". Do not trim yet. As before, divide the remaining 20 strips into 2 groups, one for the top and one for the bottom, same as before. However, for this quilt, I actually layed the strips out in the order I wanted them. I did not sew them together jelly roll fashion. Lay 10 strips out into 6 rows at the top of the quilt, stagger the strips as you go, cut extra length off so you can use it to fill in on another row. Sew the strips into rows and attach the rows to the beginning section. Lay the remaining 10 strips out into 6 rows for the bottom of the quilt in the same manner. This adds 12" to the top and bottom and gives us a finished strippy quilt approximately 62 x 88 with uneven edges. Now it's time to trim the long edges square.
I use a combination of my longest ruler and my large square to trim it up. Use the square ruler to keep your edges even (perpendicular) by lining up a marked line on the ruler with a seam in the quilt top. Use the long ruler butted up against it to cut with. If you prefer you can mark it first, measure the width of the top and bottom edges to make sure they are the same length and "square". Then go back and cut. You could also fold the top in half matching the top and bottom edges, find the point which is the narrowest and trim off to that point, on each side.
To recap, the twin size version required 78 strips, did not have borders and finished at 65 x 96 before quilting and washing. After being quilted, bound and washed it measured 59 x 89 which is a decent size for a twin bed. (A twin mattress measures 39 x 75 so it will have about a 10" drop and a little bit of a pillow tuck). A queen size mattress measures 60" x 80" so, to make this a queen size quilt the simplest thing to do would be to add borders to the 65 x 96 that we had before. So,
Version 1: 12-16" inches of borders (6"-8" each side) would give you a quilt about 80" x 110" which fits a queen size with about an 8" drop. Adding a single outer border requires 2 3/4 yards of fabric for lengthwise strips at 8 1/2" and would give you a finished quilt size of 81" x 112". If you prefer to piece your outer border cut (9) 8 1/2" wide strips from 2 1/4 yards of fabric. Join the strips and cut to measured length. Attach, measure side to side and cut 2 more borders. Backing: 7 1/2 yards, pieced with 2 horizontal seams. Binding: 1 1/4 yards for bias binding; 2/3 yd for (10) strips cut at 2 1/2" (or use leftover JR strips!).
However, you saw how much length and width you "lose" in washing so here is what I ended up with:
Version 2: This quilt began as a Jelly Roll from Moda by 3 Sisters called Park Avenue. One of the women I work with had a beautiful piece of brown cotton velvet left over from a project and it coordinated beautifully. There was just enough to add a 3.5" inner border. Since this Jelly Roll is a Christmas line and I would be using this quilt during the holiday season I wanted to add a red border. It finished at 88" x 114". At the quilting stage I thought I had made it a little too long but after washing it measures 80" x 107" which is perfect. I wouldn't want it any narrower or someone will end up getting "uncovered" during the night! As it is, it is not quite long enough to get to the bed rail. And, if you want to cover the pillows you'll see that it is plenty long enough to do that. In fact, it's the perfect length for a pillow tuck. So, I am quite happy with the finished size. If you want your quilt just like this, follow along:
I use a combination of my longest ruler and my large square to trim it up. Use the square ruler to keep your edges even (perpendicular) by lining up a marked line on the ruler with a seam in the quilt top. Use the long ruler butted up against it to cut with. If you prefer you can mark it first, measure the width of the top and bottom edges to make sure they are the same length and "square". Then go back and cut. You could also fold the top in half matching the top and bottom edges, find the point which is the narrowest and trim off to that point, on each side.
Cut (8) 3.5" strips of the inner border fabric. Piece into one long strip. Measure the length in at least two places. Cut (2) border lengths from it (apprx 88"). Pin and sew. A walking foot is handy so the fabrics feed evenly; it will help keep your quilt square and borders flat, not wavy. Now measure across the width in at least two places. Cut (2) widths (approx 68"). Pin and sew. Top now measures approx 68 x 94.
Outer Border: **I prefer not to piece my outer borders. If I can, I buy enough for tearing lengthwise strips, 3 yards will do it for a non-directional fabric. This also gives you enough fabric to line up a motif, if necessary. Tear four 10" LENGTHWISE strips from your border fabric. Measure the length and trim torn strips to length (approx 94"). Attach side borders. Measure width (approx 87") and trim remaining borders to correct length. Attach to top and bottom. Finished quilt top size: 88 x 114.
Close up of quilting: Quilting was done with an overall design on my long-arm machine called "HO HO HOLLY".
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| Detail of quilting |
Quick Look Fabric Requirements:
Version 1:
(78) 2 1/2" WOF strips- either 2 Jelly Rolls or 1 Jelly Roll plus 38 strips from your stash, or ALL Stash (yeah baby!)
2 3/4 yards for lengthwise border strips OR, 1 1/2 yards for pieced borders OR, for a directional print 3
5/8 yds
Backing: 7 1/2 yards, no matching, pieced horizontally OR 2 1/2 yards of each of (3) coordinating fabrics
Binding: 1 1/8 yards bias strips, or 10 Jelly Roll strips or 2/3 yard for cutting straight WOF strips
Version 2:
(70) 2 1/2" WOF strips
Inner Border: 7/8 yd
Outer Border: 3 yards for lengthwise strips or 2 5/8 yards to piece border strips
Backing: 8 yards or, 2 3/4 yards of (3) coordinating prints, horizontal seams
Binding: 1 1/4 yards for bias strips, or 11 Jelly Roll strips or 7/8 yard for cutting straight WOF strips
So, there you go! Hope this works for you. If you have any questions, please contact me and I'll answer asap! Now go sew up your stash!
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